The Forgotten Distillates of Rajasthan- By Rekha Rani Singh
The wine-cup is the little silver well, Where truth, if truth there be, doth dwell”
A nice drink leads the wise man to sing at the top of his lungs; laugh to his belly’s content and tempts him to narrate stories rarely told. He turns the mystery and sometimes ponderous and serious business of liquor tasting into a light, delightful experience. What is funny about alcohol tasting is the fact that we take it too seriously. Hence let me take you on an irreverent jaunt through the world of brews of Rajasthan and cheerfully expose the silly snobbery that can so muddy the simple pleasures of drinking. Let us not worry about matching the aromatic flavors of the hardy desert spirits with cheese but would want you to only dwell on their fine nuances.
Rajasthan is a very hospitable state. It is a pity that this industry of Jiggers has failed to take advantage of the massive opportunity that tourism can unlock in this area. Warm desert climate was not conducive for wine making. The spirits in Rajasthan usually had a higher alcohol content that were not meant for the faint hearted! These heady drinks were tongue numbing and smooth at the same time.
A precious Stone Goblet
Story goes back to the thirteenth century when Rana Hamir Singh Chauhan of Ranthambhor was given a boon in the form of the recipe of a magical elixir by a mendicant. This elixir would give the Rana much needed vitality. The royal houses of Rajasthan had their own distilling methods that were closely guarded secrets to this day. These potent potions, as I call them, were considered ‘living liquids’ containing no preservatives. The life cycle of these potions comprised of youth, maturity, old age and death. If not treated with respect, it would cause sickness and make life crumble away.
These brews were treated like pieces of art. They would make every meal an occasion and everyday more civilized. Strict code of conduct was followed to serve these brews. Story goes about a man who had fallen on hard times. He sold his art pieces and not his cellar. When asked why he did so, he retorted back that one can live without art but not without the culture associated with the cellar. History has documented that in the 18th century, the House of Mahansar was brewing excellent liquor made from various herbs, ghee and dry fruits. Commercial production of these brews were started in Jodhpur in the year 1924. After Independence, the manufacturing of these spirits was stopped but the House of Mahansar still produces the brew under Heritage Liquor brand.
Silver drinking glass depicting the various funny stages of drinking from the House of Badnore
The three erstwhile classes of liquors were Ikbara for the common man and Dobaara for the officers. Asaav was exclusively for the royals that underwent a distillation to emerge as a swig of royal history. They come under various names- Kesar Kasturi, Saunf, Jagmohan, Chandrahaas, Mawalin and Elaichi. They are heady, strong, herbaceous and overpowering. Some of them are consumed very much like a Cognac. Life in olden times was a combination of great food and flavorful portions and each family vied with one another to serve the best and gain many a debt of friendship. Common man’s brew was made up from the roots, barks of the native ‘Kejri’ tree, Aamla (Indian Gooseberry), jaggery and some natural flavorings like rose, cardamom and citrus fruits. The brewing was done in a mud container buried underground. ‘Dobaara’ was a little more elaborate with the use of other ingredients like dates, aniseed, milk, and cow ghee (clarified butter). Asaavs were more complex with many interesting ingredients and more refined to suit the royal palate. Basic ingredients of Kejri roots and barks with jaggery and Amla remain the same for all brews
Kejri clump at Dera Jaipur Farm, Jaipur
Kesar Kasturi was prepared using musk from black deer which is now banned. So now the use of saffron has come into practice along with ‘misri’ (crystal sugar), dry fruits, spices like star anise, nutmeg and various herbs. Any drink can be judged by a sip, but to be sure of its true value, the sips involved need to be many more! Jagmohan was produced by the royal House of Kishangarh. It was made in a silver vessel buried underground for fermentation. This vessel had a silver spout for distillation. Silver vessel imparted cooling and healing properties to the distillate and made the body immune system strong with its anti-bacterial properties and it was Nature’s antiseptic! This brew comprised of complex ingredients like candied gooseberry (murrabba), along with saffron and other exotic spices. A gourmet meal of ‘Laal Maas’ paired with the shots of Jagmohan were a delight to the palate. Mawalin is another exotic slightly bitter brew consisting of forty ingredients that are said to improve digestion, help relieve body aches and combat viral infections. We cannot unearth the quaint history and secrets of the art of the Rajasthani distillates without ignoring their therapeutic effects. Chandrahaas is a speciality from the House of Kanota and is made up of over seventy-two ingredients.
Distilling in mud vessels
For the common man the mud pots were buried underground for fermentation which was so hermit like in character. These mud pots provided superior insulation and pulled out the acidity from the brew. It allowed oxygen exchange along with the nutrients of the mud to perforate in. The word punch comes from the Hindi word ‘panch’, implying the five elements of air, water, fire, earth and space in these distillates. Some were medicinal in nature and were usually given in small doses after meals as curative portions. Due to the lack of greens in the desert, it also acted as a laxative. These potent brews helped the warriors to unwind at the end of a battle just to silence the brainbox of its witterings. The consumption of alcohol was by no means a bacchanalian party affair but rather a sober ritualistic affair. If memories could be rolled over, there would be intoxication everywhere as alcohol was used in every stage of human life from womb to tomb.
About the Author
Rekha Rani Singh runs a boutique homestay called Dera Jaipur in Bani Park,Jaipur. Dera Jaipur is known for its exquisite lunches, dinners and unforgettable inhouse experiences. Her latest foray in organic farming and dairy at Dera Jaipur farm, Sanganer is her venture into a farm to table dining concept.
